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Paris Fashion Week: A Stage Set for Drama and Farewells

Last updated on October 20th, 2023 at 06:41 pm

After Milan Fashion Week concluded, the fashion world swiftly shifted its focus to Paris, commencing another bustling season of womenswear presentations. Running until October 3, the spring-summer 2024 week in the French capital boasts an impressive lineup of 107 brands, including 67 set to showcase their collections on the runway.

All eyes are on Balmain’s show, scheduled for Wednesday night, following the sensational theft of 50 of its outfits. Armed robbers intercepted the garments en route from Charles de Gaulle Airport to Balmain’s headquarters in Paris, prompting creative director Olivier Rousteing to hastily assemble a replacement collection.

This week also marks the final shows for two renowned designers. Gabriela Hearst departs from Chloe after less than three years. While her sustainable approach received critical acclaim, it did not result in a significant sales surge. Additionally, it will be Sarah Burton’s farewell show, as she took over at Alexander McQueen after the founder’s tragic passing in 2010.

Paris Fashion Week serves as the culmination of the major fashion weeks in September, with London, New York, and Milan preceding it.

The standout story this season centers around Gucci’s new creative director. Sabato de Sarno’s debut in Milan was relatively understated but provided a boost to the share price of parent company Kering, which has been facing challenges in keeping pace with its major rival, LVMH.

The initial day of Paris Fashion Week spotlights emerging designers, and there’s considerable buzz surrounding avant-garde newcomer Marie Adam-Leenaerdt from Belgium, who kicks off the shows. Her approach emphasizes transcending seasonal constraints, focusing on eliciting surprise and emotion while spanning generations.

Also on Monday’s lineup is Victor Weinsanto, a former classical dancer with fashion training under Jean Paul Gaultier, known for infusing elements of cabaret and performance into his runway presentations. Returning to the official Paris lineup after a lengthy absence is Pierre Cardin, which made a triumphant return to the catwalk last season after a 25-year hiatus. While the label’s founder passed away in 2020, his nephew Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin currently oversees operations, amid a contentious succession dispute marked by accusations of fraud and other transgressions among family members.

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